International Player
Leah Abraham created a home for her family one meal at a time.
As an immigrant from Ethiopia, Leah Abraham found a sense of belonging and purpose in Harlem, ultimately establishing a thriving business that has become an integral part of the community's fabric.
"When I left Westchester it was a no-brainer that we wanted to move to Harem,” Leah reminisces about her family’s move to the city. “We moved here and you know the best gift I gave my children was actually moving here.”
Leah, and her husband Nino, were already year into their entrepreneurial journey, eventually opening Settepani on Lenox Avenue in Harlem, marking the beginning of a 25-year commitment to the neighborhood.
"My journey here came through a degree in chemistry then marrying into the family business, doing business in the West Village, Chelsea and then the suburbs and then discovering Harlem through it all".
The decision to move to Harlem was driven by a profound sense of connection and a desire to establish roots in a place that felt like home. "Nino and I are both immigrants. We don't we have family in the area but we don't really have a place we call home because home is very far away,” explains Leah. “And so, in a funny way, this became home.”
"Falling in love with the architecture, with the physical look of Harlem and the history that we knew growing up,” Leah says as her eyes dance along the rooftops of the brownstones in her window. “We were attracted to that scene that we saw in the movies and in the books.”
Opening Settepani in Harlem was not without its challenges. Leah faced a complex process that involved combining buildings, navigating landmark regulations, and dealing with unexpected obstacles. The neighborhood was undergoing a transformation, with brownstones being renovated and new residents moving in.
The prevalence of cash transactions and the limited banking options required Leah to adapt and find creative solutions. "During those days people were not using credit cards. It was all cash transactions there were no banks in the area that were open at all times. There was only one bank - Carver, down the street. So it wasn't easy to just go and get change in the morning,” explains Leah.
Leah recounted how she relied on a local individual who carried large sums of cash to obtain change for her business. "I met this guy who walked around with a ton of cash so I used to get my change,” recalls Leah. “It never occurred to me where my cash was coming. I never questioned it because if it's not the world you live in then you don't really connect the dots.”
For Leah, owning a restaurant transcends the typical business venture; it's a portal to community, connection, and unexpected encounters. She has discovered that her restaurant is more than just a place to eat, it is a central gathering point. "I think that's the best part of the food business,” Leah says as she looks around at the patrons enjoying their lunch. “The best case scenario is you're having a party every night and all of your guests show up and behave."
“Of course, the worst case scenarios are they don’t show up or they do and they don’t behave,” Leah laughs.
The restaurant setting has allowed Leah to cross paths with an array of people she might never have encountered otherwise. "I have made some great friends. I've met the best people. I've met people that I don't think I would ever meet working in any other environment,” Leah explains. “Because everybody comes to eat."
Over meals, people open up, leading to Leah becoming a confidante, a listener, and a recipient of interesting stories. "So it could be sometimes you're a therapist sometimes, you're just a sounding board, and sometimes you just listen to great gossip,” Leah says as she motions for one of their best desserts to finish a meal. “So much happens over a meal; so many conversations happen over a meal."
Leah recounts meeting notable figures like Dr. Maya Angelou and even having former President Bill Clinton celebrate his birthday at her restaurant. “To meet these people, if I didn't have a restaurant, I would have had to make an appointment through somebody who knew somebody who knew somebody."
Ultimately, owning a restaurant has given Leah the privilege of connecting with countless individuals and hearing their unique stories. "It's a huge privilege to cross paths with people you know and people you don't know because there's so many interesting people who have amazing stories.”