Everybody Wants a Biscuit
How The Harlem Biscuit Company's general manager Pernell Bulray breaks down Uptown southern comfort.
Step inside the Harlem Biscuit Company, and you're not just entering a restaurant; you're entering a world crafted with warmth and the undeniable allure of a perfect biscuit. Chances are good that you’ll be greeted by a smile as warm as the biscuits owned by the general manager, Pernell Bulray.
Pernell’s journey to this beloved spot has been a twelve-year adventure alongside Chef Melvin ‘Boots’ Johnson, starting from washing dishes at Melba's to prepping at Queen's Bully. As Pernell recounts, "He hired me as his dishwasher at Melba’s first and then we went to Queens Bully and I stepped up as a prep server."
The Harlem Biscuit Company itself was born during the pandemic. Pernell had taken on a job at an online delivery company so Chef Melvin reached out again. "He wanted me to come in and, you know, get the vibe of what's going on with the people,” Pernell remembers with a laugh. “I liked it. It was ‘southern comfort’. Then the conversation turned to me managing the place."
For Pernell, the definition of ‘southern comfort’ is “respectful, laidback, make you feel like you're part of a family." This ethos permeates every aspect of the Harlem Biscuit Company experience.
Nothing embodies this comfort more than their renowned biscuits.
"Everybody wants a biscuit," Pernell declares with a confident smile.
"It's the warmness,” Pernell insists. “The warmness of the biscuit is that it makes you feel very delightful. Delightful. That's a good word. You feel very very at ease." He describes the almost transcendent experience of tasting their creation: "When you crack one of our biscuits open and you’re like ‘oh my God’ and then you bite into the biscuit and you close your eyes for a second. Delightful."
“We got a lot of people that's from the south come in and know great biscuits,” Pernell explains with an air of pride. “When they taste that biscuit the first thing they say to me is ‘Who’s grandmother is back there? Where's Boots? What does she look like? She’s like 90 years old, right?’”
“When I say Boots is a man,” Pernell continues laughing, “they be like, ‘No way he's making this.’"
Even for those unfamiliar with the world of biscuits, Pernell believes the experience is universal. “The people that never had one, they get the same experience as the people that do know,” Pernell explains. “After a few bites you start to feel like you know what it should be."
The biscuit menu itself is incredibly simple. "We have three selections of biscuits,” Pernell highlights as he points to the menu. “The everything biscuit - like an everything bagel - with the onions, the poppy seeds and the sesame seeds, the chive cheddar biscuit and the classic sweet buttermilk biscuit. There you go."
And what can you get on these glorious biscuits?
Here’s where the fun happens and Pernell is not afraid to share his thoughts.
"When it’s a first timer I tell them to get the Langston: fried chicken thighs, pickles, onion, chili garlic, honey, no substitutions please,” Pernell recommends.
Another popular choice is the ACP. "That's another chicken situation with a biscuit of your choice topped with egg and gravy," Pernell explains.
You should recognize a theme in the menu names: John Lewis, Martin, Malcolm, Bodega, Ali, Rosa, SPK, Frederick, Bumpy, Hot Comb, Queenie and Zora.
But the undisputed champion, the one Pernell speaks of with immense pride, is the Biscuit Bowl. "Now, our famous Biscuit Bowl,” he introduces as though he’s handing out an imaginary award. “Our Biscuit Bowl is like the classic, the biggest thing. Everybody loves the Biscuit Bowl. Your choice of biscuit, home fried potatoes, gravy, bacon, cheese. You can't go wrong with that.”
Pernell is quick to tell you about the magic that Boots created with this menu, but this general manager is more than just a pretty face when you walk into their restaurant. His hospitality extends beyond just serving delicious food. He wants everyone to truly experience the warmth of Harlem Biscuit Company.
"I never suggest one biscuit,” Pernell says with his eyebrows on full. “I always suggest you get more. I suggest you take some home, whether you take a dozen, a pair or a trio.”
Pernell's final message is a heartfelt invitation: "I can't wait to see you guys so we can vibe, have some fun, enjoy a drink or two." At the Harlem Biscuit Company, you're not just a customer; you're family, invited to savor the warmth, the comfort, and, of course, the truly amazing biscuits.